Diamond the commercial pillar that once upon a time is Antwerp
Belgian Antwerp pillar of former two big business, it is diamond, it has the diamond with the greatest whole world to machine the market, the diamond of 80% trades in this city; Still have antique, with Brussels, antwerp is the destination that Euramerican antique dealer travels. Ave of Lai Ao Bode (Leopoldstraat) is one of two antique streets with the famousest Antwerp, here the tourist of pass in and out grew a piece mostly “ antique face “ .
But present Antwerp person can say, “6 feet of less than, have stylist of a fashionable dress surely “ .
Go Antwerp traveller, can spend 10 euro to buy “ fashionable ramble “ , this booklet can tell you, how to resemble visitting cate of museum, collect same, unique fashionable dress shop and appreciation stylist individual are searched to exhibit inside this city.
This city changes the thing that center of vogue of avant-courier of body whole world is recently 20 years. 20 centuries 559 time when, antwerp still is the attendant of Parisian vogue nevertheless. Block of Lai Ao Bode besides antique, there also were 9 old brands once upon a time familial clothing company, management pattern is very set: Employ a few 89 sew division, model and sell goods young lady, every season is staring at the new fund that those big shop signs roll out Paris, also buy sometimes edition be modelled on. Their client is those dress mostly ensure nevertheless the wealthy person when, to always follow sb‘s advice of Parisian vogue guideline.
What taking Antwerp the earliest to come forward in fashionable course of study is two ladies. 1964, englishman Marie Puliyaote (Mary Prijot) is old Antwerp royal and artistic institute established fashionable dress is professional. Design of 559 time industry is in 20 centuries Europe is popular, although royal and artistic institute is the painterly old and well-known family of 17 centuries, also have to tighten with tide, added the modern major such as planar design, Tao Yi, photography early or late, fashionable dress major also is the one part in this tide. Before this, this city designs even fashionable dress this profession to also be done not have, after student of major of a few fashionable dress graduates, so academic head has two kinds of choices only: Company of clothing seeking the home works stay, or the fashionable dress that him set up shop sells Paris, new York.
Beautiful jade amounts to handkerchief of · the name of a river in Shaanxi and Henan provinces later (Linda Loppa) appeared. Prospective Antwerp “ fashionable cummer “ it is fashionable dress major 1971 graduate. She finds out a road for oneself like elder classmate, had designed a raincoat for old and commonplace Belgian dress brand, oneself opened Louis of store of clothing of domestic high-quality goods later, fashionable dress of sale individual character. The person‘s design does not have Luopaben to cross macroclimate, but eye and grade not group, be her in those days a Shan Benyao department, plain long the shop that the work of the Xin Rui stylist that these Belgian had heard of Bao Ling hardly introduced her. 1973, lynda Luopa was witnessed in Parisian saw with one‘s own eyes plain long the first show of Bao Ling. Plain long after Baoling becomes famous, this show resembles historical legend same, attendant person be gifted by fashionable media “ the person that witness “ the identity, witness stylist of a brim how to start the war of a vogue that see form to mainstream order. Old hind memory of handkerchief of the name of a river in Shaanxi and Henan provinces says, herself You Chuanjiu protected the first show of Ling to gain freedom, “My teaching method and my idea begins change. I say to students, see figure, see the body. I gained freedom, what doing not have is impossible “ .
1981, lynda Luopa is made an appointment with from elder general Antwerp had been received in the hand especially the crosier of major of royal institute fashionable dress. It is on vogue history, have sex this to will be become very quickly “ introductive “ , lead another similar plain long news briefing of Bao Ling‘s individual is in that way revolutionary incident — “ Antwerp 6 gentleman “ (The Antwerp Six) . This incident allows people discovery, original vogue need not call Parisian vogue, Italy vogue, new York vogue, still one kind is called “ Antwerp “ .
“Antwerp 6 gentleman “
Antwerp fashionable dress
The Malanouni the fashionable dress institute that beautiful jade amounts to dominant of handkerchief of · the name of a river in Shaanxi and Henan provinces and Milan designs an institute (Istituto Marangoni) photograph is so not more appropriate than returning. The horse has given Fulanke Mosijinuo in Lanouni‘s alumnus (Franco Moschino) , Du Mei Nike Duoerji (, they are Moschino, Dolce Gabbana respectively the author of brands of these extravagant fashionable dress. The other graduate of this institute also is spread all over almost all Italy are big card, such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Valentino, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Trussardi, Salvatore Ferragamo. Their student too the mainstream too commerce. Beautiful jade amounts to a few acting chela of handkerchief of · the name of a river in Shaanxi and Henan provinces, a few Japan stylist that perhaps go up to pound fashionable bound with 669 time in design temperament are more adjacent — 3 curtilage lifetime, Shan Benyao manages He Chuanjiu protects a bell. They and they, chose the route that runs in the opposite direction with mainstream vogue.
1987, be graduated from Antwerp 6 Belgian young stylist of royal and artistic institute — Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee, open a broken lorry to appear on week of London fashionable dress. They are gone beautiful to invite inside field of course without the qualification, but did news briefing of an avant-courier fashionable dress in the themselves outside official assembly room. Box lorry and pallet sound light take an outdoor T stand, driving and arbitrary, colour spells the design work that stick to make fashionable essayist people the Fang Xing that be like a dream, british media gave free immediately “ Antwerp 6 gentleman “ seal date. Become their teacher Lynda Luopa act pusher hand is apparent and insufficient accurate, the playwrite that she is this incident, director holds concurrently manufacture person. A few students are graduated from 1980 ～ during 1981, the fund that if do not have handkerchief of the name of a river in Shaanxi and Henan provinces,gives school gate hind supports a design, the London after they hold to impossibly comes on the stage.
Make because of her in this city “ 6 gentleman “ and after becoming center of Xin Rui vogue, the extravagant brand that Lynda Luopa produces model of Zhou Na of fashionable dress of Paris, London in Antwerp innocently is beautiful, “Vogue is having richer intention, stop not just absolutely at costly with sex appeal “ . She does not think Antwerp should try hard to become another Paris or Milan, “We had not wanted to want to become Paris, Milan at the beginning in that way fashionable city, move all show to here. We are more dedicated at the design, have connection more with culture, more creative also “ .
Lynda Luopa is fashionable to Antwerp the fixed position of course of study is very clear. From 20 centuries 90 time begin, annual in June, she can be the graduate of fashionable dress institute to organize show of a graduation, time has 3 days only, but the group can invite her judge to arrive about picture revive Ci Menkesi (such new York fashionable dress comments on Suzy Menkes) the heavy pound character of the bound, famous vogue buys the whole world hand and reporter are present also. Maintain a distance to just have the freedom that becomes an organic whole oneself with mainstream order, on this Da Luopa is maintaining beautiful jade to regain consciousness. Allegedly she does not explain arm to should design what model to the student, just transmit dress how to produce connection with feminine life, the top evaluation that the student‘s work is over there her there is “ very sentient “ .
“Antwerp 6 gentleman “ to later it is 6 specific people no longer, it turned a demon into the empty bottle of unreal, be installed inside one stubble another stubble “ Antwerp is royal make “ vanward stylist. Martina Magiela did not attend news briefing of London open air, but he also is regarded as “ 6 gentleman “ generation. In the group, he is the person that has left Antwerp the earliest, after graduating 1979 with respect to Paris of go to somewhere for shelter, became a few years of assistant for Jean Paul Gaultier. 1988, be in “ 6 gentleman “ incident after two years, he returned Antwerp to open his individual brand studio, also replace the position of cummer Marine Yee, become formally “ 6 gentleman “ member.
To 90 time, veronique Bran-quinho, Raf Simons, Kris Van Assche, AF Vandevorst, Bernard Willhelm, Haider Ackerman graduates from royal institute early or late, replaced generation to be the same as the door, continue defend is worn “ Antwerp 6 gentleman “ vanward sex. Individual glamour exceeds strong possibility among them is the Raf Simons that was born 1968, he learns industrial design at first, taught oneself dress to design later, ever was generation “ 6 gentleman “ member Walter Van Beirendonck has worked. Encourage in what beautiful jade amounts to handkerchief of · the name of a river in Shaanxi and Henan provinces below, raf Simons founded individual brand Raf Simons to hold a news briefing first 1995.
For the brand, be still stylist?
On the national highway of Antwerp, 28 are the white igloo of a neoclassicism. This is Antwerp vogue “ cerebrum “ — ModeNatie. Exchange of inn of men‘s clothing hand-me-down, luxurious hotel, money once was on history of this old building, generate electricity company, it is Antwerp now heart of the fashionable dress institute of royal and artistic institute, flange this fashionable association (FFI) and MoMu fashionable museum, there is dominant inside they run “ cummer “ Lynda Luopa. “We hope to build a platform, build a whole system, the student that will help us makes their fashionable profession career after graduation, let more young stylist gain international reputation. “ handkerchief of the name of a river in Shaanxi and Henan provinces explains fashionable association to the outside so be born. Young stylist is in after gaining the experience that works for big company, meeting choice returns Antwerp, in like FFI such professional orgnaization help issues the brand that establishs his, wait to be installed by fashionable review group one day “ Antwerp 6 gentleman “ demon bottle.
Fashionable bound is not lacked rebel and soldier, but rare person can guide chela to sit so like Lynda Luopa had a true base area, divide up domain from inside empire of old brand vogue. Decide when somebody “ go to Antwerp “ , be far from Paris, forget London, no matter he is stylist,still be fashionable believer so, be equal to enunciative a kind of fashionable attitude: For the brand, be still stylist? “Antwerp “ can represent a kind of freer attitude probably, see the order of kingdom of compose fashion business.
From 20 centuries 80 time begin, luxury brand group becomes the ab extra raider of fashionable dress course of study, like the French Fulangsuowa Pinuo designed the industrial magnate that does not join a group with fashionable dress once upon a time so, buy brands of next old fashionable dress ostentatiously in succession, build fashionable empire according to commercial principle repackage, embezzle of mouth of mouth of stylist individual brand. The nothing is more… than that makes a person depressed most “ contracted queen “ Sang Da of auspicious Er · (the experience of Jil Sander) , after selling Prada the group the brand, leave for two times, this her skill founds nowadays the name that the stylist brand that rise just took her for nothing, have nothing to do with her to the design from the business.
The supports wholesale to once did not have this kind of a lot of choices difficult position of the brand. A the collaboration of Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel is stylist and brand “ paradigmatic marriage “ , the presiding stylist of LV, Chanel, YSL, Gucci, Celine, Givenchy once also was Tom Ford (favour of Kui of Tom Ford) , mark (Alexander McQueen) characters of such a few star, they are the author of costly vogue not only, more the indicative mark that makes a brand with his individual character design, be held in both hands by brand group clinking perch. Chose a brand, also chose the individual character of stylist. But these a few years, the design begins to give place to commercial interest, the administrative layer with new brand of a lot of extravagant fashionable dress thinks, brand itself used the name of generation stylist, the name that needs to rely on stylist no longer will open the market. To reduce cost, turn and promote not quite famous young stylist to form design group.
Raf Simons takes over Jil Sander, dior Homme of preferment of Kris Van Assche is presiding, the speech that Antwerp force is beginning trend of popularity of vogue of dominant whole world counterpoises. Wait for new order to end, antwerp perhaps with respect to may not be that free Antwerp again.